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Hobby Hut . Heli Wholesaler . JR-Spektrum

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Main Discussion > Raptor 50V2 Blade Flutter
 
 
Will B
Veteran
Location: Bicester, Near Oxford, UK.

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Last time I flew my Raptor 50 V2 it has started getting the old blade flutter woof and poof syndrome.

Can anyone give me a list of things to check to cure this.

Nothing setup-wise has changed since it was built 15 gallons of fuel ago. I was thinking maybe the dampeners might need a change?
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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foo
Veteran
Location: Richfield, Minnesota

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i still dont understand really what people mean by blade flutter and woof and poof, etc. The blades are either in track or are not. as long as you keep your dampers lubed they should be fine.

Raptor 30 v2 / OS .32 / JR 8103 / GY-401+9253 | Raptor 50 V2 / OS .50 Hyper
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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cdrking
Elite Veteran
Location: Seattle

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Will,

My friend is also having the same problem. His will fly fine then all of a sudden the blades will go out of track. I don't understand this at all. Everything is tight on the head.

I have two Raptor 50V2s and have never had a problem. One of my machines has about 30 gals through it too.

Another guy I talked to had this on a V1 Rap 30 and he solved it by putting shims under the main or between the top of the main gear and the snap ring, I don't remember which one he did. I don't understand how that would solve it either because if the lock collar is tight around the main mast and is locked down it shouldn't affect anything from that collar down.

I'll post here if we find anymore.

Jeff
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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staraero1
Key Veteran
Location: Atlantic City, New Jersey

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Here is a link that will get rid of the woofs or flutter on the Raptor V1's. The same procedure is used on the V2 Raptor heads using thin plastic blade washers. The procedure is explained in the same post.


http://www.rotory.com/ubbthreads/sh...sb=5&o=&fpart=1


The damper preload is the problem which creates the issue on either helicopter version. It is much worse on the V1 heads, but some of the V2 heads suffer from the trouble as well. This will solve all the woof/flutter trouble on Raptor V1 or V2 30's and 50's, if the procedure is done correctly as described.



Staraero1
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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G.Man
rrProfessor
Location: Bristol

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Check all the balls are tightened into the plastic from the head right down to the swashplate..

Likely one ball is moving on the screw under load...

To be sure, remove them all and CA them into the plastic...

There is a reason the metal upgraded helis dont woof



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07-27-2004 Over year old.
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blakka_1
Elite Veteran
Location: London/Enfield

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Quote 
There is a reason the metal upgraded helis dont woof


so tru galifrey
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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blakka_1
Elite Veteran
Location: London/Enfield

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Quote 
Nothing setup-wise has changed since it was built 15 gallons of fuel ago. I was thinking maybe the dampeners might need a change?


definatley get some new dampers. get the red TT dampers.
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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G.Man
rrProfessor
Location: Bristol

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hmmm heli can get a bit noddy with the red dampers...



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blakka_1
Elite Veteran
Location: London/Enfield

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Quote 
hmmm heli can get a bit noddy with the red dampers...


ye your right, i find they get noddy at low headspeeds, and at the end of autos.

but it really doesnt bother me, i just cant stand those blue dampers, way too soft 4 me. I put reds in my r50 and never looked back.

i will try those carbon xtreme dampers soon.
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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G.Man
rrProfessor
Location: Bristol

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U will love the carbon extreme dampers...

Dokey does, a definate improvement over the reds...



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07-27-2004 Over year old.
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blakka_1
Elite Veteran
Location: London/Enfield

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will try them soon, but im rebuilding my evo aswell so i might try some in there also

actualy I will definatley put them in my evo, i have heard from a very reliable source that it gets rid of those horrible wobbles.
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staraero1
Key Veteran
Location: Atlantic City, New Jersey

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You need damper preload to eliminate the flutter/woofs completely. That is exactly what Thunder Tiger did for the most part on the V2 30 and 50 heads, as a practical matter, to correct the problem over the original V1 heads.

The V2 heads will woof or flutter the blades here and there, if the preload on the specific V2 helicopter you have against the dampers is a bit loose from the factory.

In any event, if all else fails use this fix on a V1 or V2 head to solve the flutter or woof problem with any set of rotor blades.


http://www.rotory.com/ubbthreads/sh...sb=5&o=&fpart=1


The trouble will get solved for good. 100 percent of the time if you follow the directions, and use the correct size washers to get the preload set right. And the bearings n the grips as a practical matter will last as long as they normally do. Hundreds of the V1 and V2 Raptors are running this way now, with no blade woofs or flutter any longer, or at any high rotor speeds. And the grip bearing life has not changed much either way. Some of the early grip bearings were not real good ones anyway, so changing them when you do this fix is not a bad idea in any case. Again just a suggestion if all else fails, and you are tired of fooling with Raptor woofs and violent blade flutter out of track episodes.


Staraero1
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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2LTime
Veteran
Location: Walworth,NY

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Here's what I would check:

Replace dampers
Check all links for play
Check collective servo screws are real tight
Lube dampers
Check main hub for play on main shaft with upper jesus bolt loose
Check washout hub for excessive play on main shaft
Check for play between blade grips and their bearings



Jeff
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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tittelba
Senior Heliman
Location: Bolingbrook, IL

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foo, it's not that simple.

www.baltimoreboyz.us
07-27-2004 Over year old.
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IFHELI
Senior Heliman
Location: Woonsocket,RI

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R50 flutter

Check the pitch lever arm also. My R50 was fluttering the blades a few weeks ago and I found that the stock pitch lever arm would wobble on shaft / screw thru bearing on left side of heli but was nice and tight on right side. I tighten the screw up and replace some ball links and flutter was gone. Keith
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Jeff H
Key Veteran
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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here we go again.

bob you're right, it will work, but you're making it very hard to remove the bearings later for service. The problem (as I see it) is that you are tightening up the system, and that will stop it, but with the uncorrecting delta still there, and aggravated if you are using cheapo blades, the unstable system is just waiting for something else to wear out and cause the woof again.

Alexander you're right as well, but your solution attacks the heart of the problem. You are removing the uncorrecting delta from the machine and using correcting delta


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G.Man
rrProfessor
Location: Bristol

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Woof and Poof can only come from a problem from the swashplate upwards...

Anything below the swashplate CANNOT affect blade tracking only the angle or position of the swash... this is a different problem to woof and poof...

Staraeros mod preloads the dampers at the risk of increased side load on the radial bearings, most of which is removed once the blades are spooled up..

Head flip adds corrective delta which stabilises the head (rarely see woofs on a r60+ do you...)

NEITHER will work if there is a problem with your balls (pardon the phraseology)...

Get the screws tight in your balls, get the slop from your ball links, check for bent screws you missed in that last crash....

THEN if you still have woofs choose the corrective method that suits you (for me its head flip)



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staraero1
Key Veteran
Location: Atlantic City, New Jersey

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It's O.K. with me either way if the fix is used or not. I am not going anywhere again with this Jeff. If you get it or don't get it, I really don't care one way or the other. I, and now many other Raptor fliers know exactly what this does, and what the outcome of doing the fix is. There are hundreds of them running like this now without issue. There is no trouble with the fix. It is the only method that will correct every V1, or any V2 30 or 50 Raptor that woofs or blade flutters, 100 percent of the time. And there are no unusual bearing problems associated with this fix if done right. There are many people out there having the woof trouble, even after the grips are flipped. If they have loose spindle damper preload in their Raptor helicopter head, the woofs do not go away with a simple flip of the grips. It just does not work reliably in every case.

If correcting to the delta was the simple cure all solution as is touted, the people at Thunder Tiger would have never retooled and built the V2 head. They changed it because that delta grip flip was not reliable enough to solve the woof/flutter trouble in there V1 heads. Period. I only offer everyone who still has the trouble a way to fix the woof trouble for certain. In the V1's, and some of the V2's that are loose in their head damper preload. A few of the V2's will woof and flutter sometimes as well. This is because a few of these heads still suffer from loose damper preload. This preload mod with the right plastic washers installed on the spindle of a V2 head will solve the trouble if it is done correctly. In every instance. I really dont care who uses it. It is availible to use when a flier is tired of fooling with the Raptor heads, and the blade flutter woofs some of them have. Even after their grips have been played with in different configurations.

A lot of us here locally flipped the grips and many of the helicopters continued to woof/flutter badly, even after the flip was done. As we passed 1800 RPM the blades on many of the Raptors around here still went ballistic. You think we did not try that a while ago? We all flipped the grips, and more then half the Raptors we flew still blade fluttered out of track at high rotor RPM's badly. This fix is what we all did here locally to solve every helicopter with the trouble. Then we passed it on to many other people who are now using it. And their helicopters have never woofed at any rotor speed since fixing the damper preload either. And it does not matter if the blade grips are fliped or not. In fact if they are left trailing, the helicopter maintains the right link geometry and flies better. Like Thunder Tiger designed it to fly.

Who ever has done the blade grip flip, and it solved their woof problem for certain great. If you have done the grip flip and your helicopter still woofs and blade flutters out of track at high rotor RPM's, and scares the crap out of you, use this fix. I promise it will stop the blade flutter, if you follow the directions correctly. It will work on any V1 or V2 Raptor 30 or 50 heads. Here it is again, if anyone has woofs they can't get rid of on a Raptor V1 or V2 30 or 50 helicopter.

http://www.rotory.com/ubbthreads/sh...sb=5&o=&fpart=1



Staraero1
07-28-2004 Over year old.
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WOS
Heliman
Location: NW INDIANA

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Hey Guys, Listen to staraero1
He knows what he is talking about. He has more hours flying the rappy's than everyone listed here problaly put together. Mute point. Point is though he knows what he is talking about. go read his link. do as it says and you will be amazed. woofs woof no more
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staraero1
Key Veteran
Location: Atlantic City, New Jersey

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Because the grip flip works in some cases, and does nothing for the woofs in many other instances. And it does work in some instances, but not for the reason most think. I can demo many Raptor helicopters that woof badly even with the grips flipped. And there are many people running grip flipped Raptors that still woof badly. Do you actually know this Colin? You seem to think that a grip flip will stop the woof flutter every time without exception on a Raptor. Not a chance. Many Raptors are still woofing badly with the flip done to them. This is because the grip preload to the dampers on their particular helicopter is simply still too loose.

Again, Thunder Tiger knew the blade grip flip would not work in every case. That is why they came up with the V2 head arrangement. And they should know the grip flip was not the cure all, they built the thing. That is the reason they changed the head design. They are in the design, marketing, and profit business. If a grip flip would have solved the trouble in every case, Thunder Tiger would have simply revised the building instructions to include flipped grips. It was never that simple, and they did not do this because it does not work reliably in each case. That is why the woof issue still gets talked about so much. There are also hundreds of people who did the grip flip, and their Raptor helicopters still woof like mad.

There new head design is built to have more damper head preload and tighter blade grip bearings. That is why the stock V2 does not blade flutter like the V1 does, in most cases. The new head design by Thunder Tiger simply put more damper preload against the back grip bearings. All you need to do sometime is get both heads together side by side, and you will clearly see what the V2 head is, that the V1 head is not. To see and clearly understand the Thunder Tiger solution to the woofs on their V2, just compare the two heads. Not rocket science to understand what the guys at T.T. did to fix the problem.

Again, Thunder Tigers solution for the woof blade flutter in the V2 heads was tighter carrier bearings in the V2 grips. And then a tighter rear blade grip bearing preload to the damper. Just that simple. That is what the V2 head has over the V1 head. Nothing more nothing less. And as you probably have noticed, Thunder Tiger did not flip the grip setup on the V2 either in their building plans. Simply because the grips running in trail is not the problem which actually causes the woof flutter. There was never a problem running the grips trailing, and Thunder Tiger understood this. If you have a good tight V2 head out of the box, or a V1 head with the bearing glue and washer mod, it lets you run the grips trailing. Like the helicopter was meant to be run, with no woof or flutter ever.

Anyway, this is not for Colin/Alexander and not for you guys who flipped the grips and that worked for you. This is for the people who have a Raptor helicopter, V1 or V2 30 or 50, that has the woof trouble. Even after trying a grip flip which did not solve the trouble. This mod will correct the damper preload trouble, and completely eliminate the Raptor blade flutter at high rotor RPM's. No matter which way you run the blade grips, the problem will be solved for sure. Just a suggestion if you got a Raptor with blades that are still fluttering at high rotor RPM's, no matter what you have tried to stop it. This will cure the trouble 100 percent of the time. It takes about 1 hour of your time, is simple and straight forward to do, and costs about 30 cents.


Staraero1
07-28-2004 Over year old.
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