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Trex 600N as of March 3 2008

The center pulse on the 9251, 9256, and BLS251 servos is 760us, the pulse width on a regular (digital or analog)servo is 1520us. The Spartan, SolidG, CSM720, and 601/611 all support narrow pulse width. The 401 does NOT. Please don't confuse the high frame rate DS mode with narrow pulse width, they are two different things. Frame rate determines HOW MANY pulses per second measured in hertz (the 401 runs 270hz in DS mode, I think its 70 in non DS mode) while pulse width describes the length of the pulse in micro seconds. (BarracudaHockey)

Bobby Watts Special STRATUS

Thanks to Ben Minor for this technique....

Taken from HERE
Preface: Before any of the advantages that the 14MZ radio affords the modeler with an eCCPM model can be realized, a sound mechanical set up must first be obtained. The radii of all servo wheels must be identical. All servos driving the swashplate must be of the same type. It is preferable to start with either new servos or at least a set with relatively low and equal time on them. This practice ensures a reasonable degree of matching between each of the servos driving the swashplate and thus helps to minimize control interactions.

Set Up Steps:

Enter the SERVO MONITOR menu under LINKAGE. Select NEUTRAL TEST and turn it on. This locks the model's servo in exact neutral, which is vital to eCCPM set up. Under the ATV and Subtrim menus, all values for the servos/channels driving the swashplate should be set to 100% (ATV), 155% (LIMIT for ATV), and ZERO for Subtrim.

Locate the mounting point for each ball link on the servo driving the swashplate at EXACTLY ninety degrees relatively to horizontal. Theoretically, this should be ninety degrees to the long axis of the servo's case. In achieving this geometry, the use of subtrim should be avoided if at all possible.
Adjust the pushrods going from the swashplate control servos to the bellcranks (if present on the model) so that the bellcranks are exactly square and perpendicular.

Adjust the pushrods going from the bellcranks to the swashplate so the swashplate is EXACTLY level and square to the models mainshaft from all orientations. At this point, set the desired half stick collective pitch in the rotor blades. For a 3D model, this will be ZERO degrees. For a contest model, the center stick position may be plus a few degrees depending on pilot preference.

Going back to the SERVO MONITOR menu, turn off the NEUTRAL test function. Within LINKAGE screen, enter the SWASH menu. There you will see NEUTRAL POINT and SWASH AFR.

Under usual circumstances, the NEUTRAL POINT menu will not need to be manipulated. Per your model manufacturer's recommendations or your own preferences, set the AILERON SWASH AFR for the MAXIMUM desired amount of aileron cyclic (roll) pitch. 6-7 degrees is a good starting point. Repeat this for the ELEVATOR SWASH AFR. 6-7 degrees is a good starting point here as well. The PITCH AFR sets the TOTAL number of degrees of collective pitch range that the model has. For most models, the total range should be between 20-22 degrees of total pitch.

Touch the SWASH DETAIL button in the top right-hand corner of the screen. Move the collective stick up and down and note how the boxes on the various mixing function alternately become highlighted. When a box goes white, it is open for adjustment.

Place the collective stick at maximum pitch. Adjust the highlighted box under PIT to AIL until the swash sits level WHEN VIEWED FROM THE FRONT OR BACK OF THE MODEL. Lower the collective stick fully. Using the now highlighted box next to the one that you just adjusted, repeat the procedure once again viewing the model from either the front or rear.

Return the collective stick to maximum. Adjust the highlighted PIT to ELE box until the swash sits perfectly level WHEN VIEWED FROM EITHER SIDE OF THE MODEL. Lower the collective stick fully as before and repeat this procedure for the now highlighted box, once again adjusting for a level swash when viewed from the side of the model.

Position the collective stick to half. Move the elevator back and forth and watch as the ELE to PIT adjustment boxes in the MIXING RATE area flash back and forth. Also note the center pivot ball of the swashplate is likely moving up and down a bit as you apply the fore and aft elevator command. Adjust the highlighted box in the ELE to PIT menu so the fore and aft elevator commands do NOT cause the swashplate's center pivot ball to move up and down.

The AIL to PIT adjustments can be found to flash back and forth as left or right aileron commands are input. The collective stick should still be at half. Similar to the way the swashplate's center pivot ball moved up and down with elevator commands, left and right aileron commands may cause the same movement. After determining which adjustment box corresponds to left and right, adjust each as needed until the swashplate's center pivot ball no long rises and/or falls with an aileron command.

After adjusting the ELE to PIT and AIL to PIT functions, the swashplate's center ball should remain more or less still when aileron or elevator commands are input at the half collective stick position.

The final MIXING RATE function to adjust is the ELE to AIL. With the collective stick still at half, move the elevator stick back and forth while viewing the model from the front or rear. The goal here is to have the swash remain level as to tilts back and forth with the elevator command. By nature, it is more difficult to tell if the swash is tilting left or right with the elevator commands. Here is a tip to help make the tilt, if present, more visible. Rotate your model's rotorhead so the flybar is oriented EXACTLY parallel to the tail boom. Repeat the up and down elevator commands. If you note the flybar paddles moving as the elevator commands are input, then the swashplate is also tilting left and right. Adjust either one or both of the ELE to AIL adjustment boxes until the flybar paddles remain more or less motionless while elevator commands are input. Again, it is VERY important that the flybar be oriented exactly parallel to the tail boom for procedure to be accurate.

In simplest terms, the LINKAGE COMPENSATION functions are used to adjust out interactions that occur at high and low collective ranges. Place the collective stick at maximum. Move the aileron control left and right and note the way the swashplate's center pivot ball moves up and down. Adjust the boxes corresponding to left and right aileron commands under AILERON until the swashplate's center pivot ball sits more or less motionless when left and right aileron commands are input. Repeat this same procedure for the aileron commands when the collective stick is at full low. You may need to play around with the values in multiples greater than one until you get things close, then go one percent at a time until you get it just right. The radio will allow you to get things just about perfect, so be patient.

The ELEVATOR adjustments under LINKAGE COMPENSATION work exactly as they did for aileron, except here you adjust the highlighted boxes as needed until your swashplate's center pivot ball sits more or less motionless at full high or low collective stick positions when elevator commands are input. When the AILERON and ELEVATOR commands under LINKAGE COMPENSATION are correctly adjusted, your swashplate's center pivot ball will remain basically still at high or low collective positions as you apply aileron and/or elevator commands.

The last swashplate tuning feature to adjust is the SPEED COMPENSATION. This feature adjusts out interactions inherent to 120 degree eCCPM when RAPID elevator commands are input. A good starting value is 15%. Adjust this percentage up or down until your swashplate's center pivot ball stays more or less still as you cycle the elevator stick back and forth. Try to move the stick back and forth at some reasonably realistic and consistent rate to most accurately fine tune this adjustment.

600N

Although designed to primarily carry radial loads, a radial ball bearing’s raceways are deep enough that it can also carry reasonable thrust loads. (However, if thrust loads are excessive, an alternative type of bearing should be considered.)

Questions on the thrust mod answered....

I am now recommending the G-Force design setup. The design below was put together early on in the release of the 600N. Since then G-Force and LukeRC has come up with a prepackaged solution.

The split collars on mine are Bergens but most better heli brands use split collars for 10mm mainshafts. MA collars are 0875. You need two. Get them from Ricks. I got the thrust bearings from http://www.vxb.com
Try these http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Thrust/Kit7593
I first ordered these
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Thrust/Kit7156
but the outer dia is a little small. For $14.95 you get two. The others with the larger OD you get one for $2.95 but the quality might be suspect. I just ordered some of the larger cheaper ones to try out. I like the larger seating area. NOTE: Set up is critical. You need to leave a gap under the middle bearing so the oneway sleeve doesn't ride on the inner race. That's what the upper thrust bearing will do. Once you've tightened the upper thrust assy so the sleeve doesn't contact the middle bearing, you push down the lower thrust while holding the heli up in the air by the grips and tighten the lower collar. You don't want any play up and down once the thrust assy's are set. When properly setup you will have ZERO axial loads on the main shaft bearings and no influence at the main gear/oneway from the lower bearing.

MY FLEET 1-22-07

TREX DARTH VADER

No longer in my fleet.

HATORI MUFFLER TYPE INFO click this link

Table Of Contents

•	My Scripted Gallery - SNL-OBAMA_DOES
•	My Scripted Gallery - fields

TREX SA Arrived 1-3-2007 This was the first build.

I have since crashed and replaced a ton of parts with upgraded ones. See Darth Vader Trex for the latest as of 3-11-07

3rf3f

EVO50 #1 Rebuilt 1-2007

No longer in my fleet.

4/1/2007 EVO50 with EVO90 Pitch Arm Mod

You cannot simply swap the assembly. You have to shorten the pitch arm and tap a new hole the same distance as the EVO50 arm. You need to use the original elevator lever and install the 0414-394 arms onto it. The EVO90 elevator lever is too narrow.

Tiger 50

No longer in my fleet.

Lums Pond	Lums Pond	Before Scissors

	JR Grips & Hub G10 Fin Hirobo Blades, Strobe

Throttle Jockey Pro Install

X-Cell Gasser

No longer in my fleet.

Airbus Nosegear After Emergency Landing

Rebuilding Milwalkee 14.4 Cordless Drill Packs

$80 a piece for Milwalkee replacement battery packs.
With the rebuild I went from 2400 mah Ni-Cad to 3300 mah Ni-Mh.
Built two for the price of one new one.
24 sub-c cells. (12 cells per pack, 1.2v x 12 =14.4v)
www.all-battery.com
Sc 3300 mAh high capacity NiMH Rechargeable battery WithTaps - Part#: RB-SC-S3300-HA01
(Qty: 24 x $4.35) Qty Discount. $3.00 each Order Subtotal: $72.00 S&H: $8.14 Final Total: $80.14

My Ride..... Dodge Cummins

You can't beat the power and economy of the Cummins 5.9L Inline Diesel
Dodge Makes It..... Cummins Shakes It

A few 2005 outdoor pics...

Perennial Bananas and Bamboo These grow in the Northeast... SE Pennsylvania The Bananas are a hardy variety. They die off in the winter and regrow every summer.

Our Fox "Rusty" RIP	Grey Tree Frog	Japanese Hirobo Maple	1985 John Deere 310A

Bunch of V-22 Ospreys in Flight

Tuning the YS 91SR (Tyler)

Now that you have cool power and the Enya #3, go straight to the needle settings everyone else has suggested:
High 7/8
Mid 1 1/4 to 1 1/2
low start around 1
I have posted several times about how I was taught to tune the SR engine by Curtis Youngblood. His technique has helped a lot of other pilots that I passed the process on to.
I have found that 2-3 clicks makes a big difference once you get close to the ideal needle settings, BUT YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THE PROPER NEEDLE.
I'll try to dig up my previous post for you to reference.
By the way, I have found the magnum to run hotter than cool power and the Curtis Fuel to make it impossible to get the needles working properly together.
How do you tune your SR91?????
Turn off the ATG.
Go to factory needle settings. Adjust the idle for a smooth idle that will spool up without stumbling yet has a nice slow tick over.
Hover the heli and lean out the midrange slowly until it goes lean. Take small steps. The YS will quickly tell you when you have gone two clicks too far. Land instantly from your hover and richen it up one click at a time until it hovers clean.
Slowly do some long climb outs keeping the engine on the midrange needle, not full pitch here. Just check to see you have the needle just rich enough to handle the added pitch for a long time.
Land and check your idle again. Adjust if needed. However, don't richen up the low end to get rid of any hanging on the pipe during your long climb outs. ONly adjust for the idle once the engine settles down.
Now slowly perform some long climb outs that gradually enter full throttle and full pitch. Land to richen or lean the top end only. If the engine hangs on the pipe adjust the TOP end, not the idle needle. As things smooth out do some more aggressive climbs.
When you think you have it, go up and do some heavy loading on the enigine like sustained tic-tocs. Instantly hit throttle hold and see if the engine hangs on the pipe as it autos down. If it does, richen the top needle a click. Repeat.
If the engine never hangs on the pipe, it hovers and transitions nicely, and still idles great the engine is tuned.
Now, Turn on the ATG.
If the engine starts to surge, land and reset the low throttle position. Move it up gradually until the oscillation quits.
Done, Enjoy.
Thanks Curtis for your help at IRCHA.
Take special note
1. Start tuning the ys using the midrange (long) needle while in a hover.
2. Don't use the low needle to fix hanging on the pipe, use the high speed needle (short).
3. Remember, you are looking for a relationship between all three needles. If one needle is off, you will be forced to overcompensate with another needle. This is a domino effect that causes one to chase the wrong needles.
4. Be willing to experiment with fuels. Fuel makes a difference in my book.
Please let me know how you progress. I can assure you that when you start over and get the needles right this engine really performs.
Tyler