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He is now able to setup his helicopter after a crash to the same specifcations of his original setup. September 4-5, 2004
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Swashplate Leveling Tool Setup Instructions
Step 2: REMOVE the Swashplate Leveling Tool and turn on the radio and advance the collective to the full open position to allow the Swashplate Leveling Tool to be inserted between the mainshaft collar and the bottom of the swashplate. Remove the links to both the for and aft and the right and left cyclic controls. SLOWLY move the collective downward until the bottom of the swashplate just touches the Swashplate Leveling Tool (without binding). Make sure all the trims are neutral on both the for and aft and right and left cyclic controls. Next adjust all the removed links so that the Swashplate Leveling Tool and the swashplate are properly aligned. Reconnect all the links and make sure the alignment is still square with the Swashplate Alignment Tool. P.S. Make sure that the trims are set to neutral in all flight modes. Your swashplate and flybar paddles are now properly aligned. Step 3: REMOVE the swashplate leveling tool prior to flight.
I have also made custom Swashplate Leveling Tools for use with the Robbe Machines.
DISCLAIMER: I can't attest to its suitability for use on the Raptor series of helicopters. Anyone considering making one of these units should carefully evaluate any and all safety and engineering concerns prior to its use. I assume no responsibility/liability as it pertains to its suitability for use. Considerations I thank everyone for their interest in this post. As I originally stated, I bought the stock for the project some time back and have just found the time to do the machine work. Considerations prior to use: 1. 06-26-04 I have run this unit for about 3 months and everything is working fine. One other individual here on RR has made some of these hubs and has experienced problems with the tail belt shredding after about 5 gallons of use. I personally have not encountered this issue and have about 8 gallons on the unit I am currently running on my machine.. Anyone considering this modification should run the tail belt tight and monitor the tail belt for shredding. 2. The hope is that with the extra RPM that tail rotor control will improve. I am currently running NHP 85 tail blades. 3. The "possible danger" is that with the extra RPM's the tail rotor hub may not be able to stand the extra load which could result in the loss of a tail rotor blade which could result in damage to the helicopter or personal injury. I personally would not use the PV0031 tail hub listed below as it has a very limited grip range for the screws utilized for the tail blade holders.
1800 Headspeed X 4.30 = 7740 (TR) RPM (Excel) 1800 Headspeed X 4.66 = 8388 (TR) RPM (Tempest) 1800 Headspeed X 4.55 = 8190 (TR) RPM (OEM R50) 9 tooth pulley 1800 Headspeed X 5.12 = 9216 (TR) RPM (Mod R50) 8 tooth pulley 1850 Headspeed X 5.12 = 9472 (TR) RPM (Mod R50) 8 tooth pulley 1900 Headspeed X 5.12 = 9728 (TR) RPM (Mod R50) 8 tooth pulley 1950 Headspeed X 5.12 = 9984 (TR) RPM (Mod R50) 8 tooth pulley 2000 Headspeed X 5.12 = 10240 (TR) RPM (Mod R50) 8 tooth pulley I am not sure on the Raptor 60 but the back of the manual says Gear Ratio 1:9.3 : 4.65 Whatever that means???? If the tail rotor gear ratio were 4.65 then tail rotor speed would be as follows: 1800 Headspeed X 4.65 = 8370 (TR) RPM (Raptor 60) Important Safety Note: As you can see the Tail Rotor RPM's at 2000 headspeed are 10240 which is 1140 RPM over the OEM RPM of 9100.
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APPROXIMATE COST: No. 9248 LongArm Telescoping 8 ft handle $11.00 No. 0470 LongArm paint pad $3.00 2 ea. 1/4 x 20 Nylon nuts and bolts $1.00 12 1/2" piece of Coreplast find some scrap or purchase at sign shop. 1 " schedule 40 PVC pipe to make a portable mounting bracket or install pieces into the ground at the pilot area. Most of these items were available at Lowes. The total cost for this project is approximately $25.00. Bottom Line: With this device you can fly in a sky that has the sun shining in your eyes and completely take the sun out of the picture except for one "little dot" in the horizon. Just align the round Coreplast disk so that the sun is blocked from your view and stand still while flying. The result is that you get a view that is just like one where the sun is not present.
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February 22-23, 2003
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I have made some modifications to my clutch setup that have been a real help to "me". In "my opinion" the clutch shoe to liner clearance is way to wide on the Raptors 30/50/60/90. The original clutch (the piece that bolts to the engine fan) at it largest point is approximately 1.417 on the Raptor 30/50 V1 and 1.495 on the Raptor 30/50 V2. I find that if I make the clearance between the clutch and the liner .012 (that is .006 on each side of the shoe it works fine. I have found that gluing a new lining in the old bell will not provide a good fit and break in time. I have seen some last a long time and others break in just a few flights. This first thing I do is remove all the bolts from the engine to the motor mount and clean all the holes of any excess loctite that may have accumulated in the holes. I would also clean all the bolts with a wire brush to get any buildup off the bolts threads. Furthermore, I would also clean the bolt holes in the side frame where the motor mount is attached and also clean the bolts of any excess loctite. By cleaning all the holes and bolts it will provide some room for alignment of the (engine with the clutch and one way bearing attached) to properly align itself into the "start shaft" during the reassembly process. ALIGNMENT OF THE MOTOR TO THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY IS VERY IMPORTANT. You should be able to rotate the Start Shaft with the piston off the compression stroke and have minimal drag. During the reinstallation process watch the fan blade. Turning it one direction will drive the engine for starting purposes. Turning it the other direction is where you want minimal drag. The SECRET is gradually tightening all of the (8) bolts (4) on the engine to the motor mount and (4) on side frames to the motor mount. By gradually tightening all the bolts (and moving the engine as necessary from front to back and side to side) will create minimal drag on the start shaft. The other part of the SECRET is the proper clearance between the clutch and liner as stated above. I remove the old liner material by putting the bell in my metal lathe and turning out the old liner material. Then I a place a (piece or two) of .005 brass shim stock (depending of the clearance needed) in the clutch bell gluing the pieces of brass shim stock and the liner material into the bell assembly. You may have to remove a small piece of the end of the liner material to allow for the JB WELD and associated shim stock. I let this assembly dry over night. At this stage the clutch will either fit very tight or not fit at all into the clutch bell with the new liner installed. I then turn the ID of the clutch bell (the liner surface) to a dimension of 1.429 which gives it the .012 clearance. I have really good luck with this setup. I know it sounds like a lot of work but it is really worth the effort. Most likely you don't have a metal lathe and this method may not work for you. P.S. Make sure you remove the shim washer (located behind the drive washer) on the front of the OS engine it you have one. This will eliminate any drag that may be induced by "to tight of a fit" between the clutch and clutch bell support bearing.
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